Kite Festival in Sumpango
I've been learning about the Latin American
celebrations of Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) since I started studying
Spanish in middle school. Last weekend, though, was the first time I had
the opportunity to experience the celebration authentically.
We had no classes on Friday, November 1st, in
honor of the tradition. My friends and I took advantage of the day by
going to Sumpango, where each year they hold the Festival de los Barriletes
Gigantes (Festival of the Giant Kites) next to the cemetery.
We walked first through the cemetery. It
really is true that el Dia de Todos Santos (Nov. 1) is a celebration. The
above-ground tombs were freshly painted in bright colors and covered with pine
needles and flowers. At some graves, family members still worked to
decorate even that morning. Ice cream
vendors pushed their carts up and down through the pathways, ringing their
bells and selling cones of bright yellow ice cream topped with a crimson jelly.
Kids ran past, their small home-made kites flying high above them.
After we had experienced the cemetery, we
moved through the growing crowds to the main attraction--the open field where
all of the kites were set up.
The kites were set up in rows, with the
smallest--the children's kites--in front, and the largest in the back. We
meandered through the rows and watched as some of the kites were erected on
giant bamboo poles. It took a team of people and a bit of engineering to
get the crepe-paper kites from their spots on the ground to leaning on the tall
poles, and that was an event to watch in itself.
As we moved towards the tallest giants, I was
amazed by their size and detail. These kites wouldn't fly, though from
what I understand an attempt would be made at dusk. But their beauty
looking over the festival was unmistakable.
The tradition of flying kites on All Saints Day
dates back hundreds of years. Flying the kites, which so easily are
ripped to shreds in the October winds, is symbolic of life and death, or
perhaps a way to communicate with the dead somehow. Today, many of the
kites also bear important messages in their designs. Some cautioned us to
care for our natural resources. Some reminded the people of their
heritage. All were intricate and very beautiful.
We only stayed for a few hours in the morning,
before the crowds became too insane and before any kite larger than 6-8ft in
diameter took the sky. But it was worth it. Truly a unique and
gratifying experience!
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