Inca Trail Day 4: On June 21st, That Cloud Looks Like a Puma
3:30am came not so bright, but plenty early. Sadly, there was no daybreak tea served in
our tents on the last day, it was all business.
We had 20 minutes to get dressed and pack up, and then breakfast was
served. It was sort of weird feeling—both
to use a flashlight to go to the dining tent, as well as turning over our
sleeping bags and mats to the porters, since we wouldn’t need them for the
night and wouldn’t be carrying them that day.
By 4:30am, we had finished eating, and we were on our way,
flashlights in hand and packs on. We
walked a whole five minutes…and then we stopped. We were the fifth group in line for the trail
to Machu Picchu, and we sat and waited at the entrance for an hour until it
opened at 5:30am.
Promptly at 5:30, they began allowing people through. We showed our passports and trail tickets,
and began the still dark walk along the mountain side to get to the Sun Gate—what
would be our first glimpse of the ancient city.
Contrary to previous mornings, our entire group stayed
mainly together, picking a medium-fast pace.
We all wanted to get there before the crowds. (On the Inca Trail, there is a limit of 250
people and 250 porters allowed each day.
At Machu Picchu itself, there is no limit, and the site sees thousands
of tourists each day).
At 6:30am, we climbed the final stairs to the Sun Gate,
excited to be there to watch the sun rise over Machu Picchu.
We were greeted with this view:
Our guides assured us that we could wait as long as we
wished, and that the fog would eventually burn off. One guide guessed, though, that it would
probably be 8:30 or 9:00am before the clouds cleared completely. At around 7:20, our group made the decision
to begin a very leisurely walk down towards Machu Picchu, stopping at the vista
points along the way.
At our first vista point, just a few steps down the trail,
our guide Cocamon told us, “Now, just imagine…to your right, the smaller
mountain. To the left, Wayna
Picchu. And below that, there are some
buildings. You see it?” Several of us looked at each other, in
complete disappointment to have come this far, only to see…clouds…and just
started laughing. What else do you
do?
Now, over here, you see... |
At the third vista point, we camped out, dropping our packs
and some of us taking seats on the rocks, and we waited for perhaps half an
hour. And, wouldn’t you know it…the
clouds began to clear.
After our first glimpses of half the mountain, we continued
down to the actual site. By the time we
had reached Cocamon’s favorite vista point (away from the crowds, but with a
great view of Machu Picchu) the clouds were almost completely gone, making for
great photo opportunities.
"We made it! We are condors!" |
Cocaman's explanation |
Mach Picchu |
After ample time for distance photos, we dropped off our
backpacks, had the luxurious opportunity to use the first western toilets we’d
seen in four days, and embarked on a 2 hour tour of the city with Cocaman.
Temple of the Sun |
Temple of the Condor |
Through parts of the tour, I couldn’t stop my mind from
wandering. I was hungry, the sun was
beating down, and both my calves felt like fire every time I walked up or down
the cursed Inca steps. That’s not to say
I wasn’t happy; I was ecstatic. I just
had the attention span of a two year old.
However, I did catch some of what Cocaman was saying—explaining the
various temples and styles of architecture, showing off sculptures and certain
rock formations that, on the winter or summer solstice, would cast shadows just
so. After all these explanations of
symbolism, one of the members of our group murmered, “Did you know? On June 21st, that cloud looks
like a puma!”
After the tour, we were given about an hour of free time to either return to
town or further explore Machu Picchu.
G-Money and I chose to find a spot on one of the terraces and just sit
and enjoy the view. We didn’t have the
energy for much more exploring. And how
often do you get the chance to enjoy the view at Machu Picchu, really??
Then, it was the bus back to town…a meal with everyone from
our group…a few hours exploring the small tourist town of Aguas Calientes…then
a train followed by a bus back to Cusco.
We arrived back at our hostel at about 11:00pm. We opted to hold off on a shower until the
morning, and collapsed into bed, hoping our exhaustion from the trek would
enable us to sleep through the hostel’s parties (it didn’t work, of course…but
for $8 a night, what are you going to do?)
On the train from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo |
We spent our last half day in Cusco the next morning
meandering up and down the streets, visiting markets and tourist shopping, and
having one last delicious meal. A
fantastic end to a fantastic trip!!
My time in Peru was absolutely amazing, and I would do the
entire trip again in a heartbeat. (Of
course, if given the option, I would probably choose a different trek the
second time—but only because I want to experience more of the Andes rather than
seeing the same views again).
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